Hello everybody,
Sorry to have been a while away; but we were in relatively remote climes, with intermittent internet and 'island time' connection speeds. And then we get back to the mainland and the long road home, and the cold(s) that had been smiting down one cast member after another finally caught up with yours truly just outside of Chetwynd, and kept me bundled up, stuffed of nose and slowed of thought process, all the way home. But we are all back safe now, and here are some stories and snaps from the road.
Week 2: The prospect of a week on Haida Gwaii was thrilling to everyone. The ferry trip to reach the islands, crossing the infamously wild and treacherous stretch of water known as the Hecate Strait, brought more varied reactions; from visceral excitement, to grimaces and reaching for the Gravol. Personally, I inherited a sturdy set of sea legs from my father's side of the family (the MacKinnons of Barra, from the Western Isles of Scotland) and have a real love of the open ocean, so I was on the stoked side of the spectrum.
The trip was to be a night crossing and we spent an ominous night before in Prince Rupert. Gale forces lashed the coast and rattled the windows of the
Black Rooster hostel where we were staying, rain hammering out a percussive accompaniment to the wailing wind. I was reading John Vaillant's excellent book
'The Golden Spruce' (and for anyone interested in BC and Haida history, I would highly recommend it). I read some passages aloud detailing just how tempestuous the crossing can be. Tidal gauges have sent back readings of 30+ meter swells in winter storm conditions. So that was nice to consider. The next evening the good ship 'Northern Adventure' sailed and we were on it. And it was nothing but fun. Mild swells a few meters high. Just a gentle swaying which eventually lulled everyone to sleep in their cabin bunks. Good times were to be had out on deck beforehand, with hot rum toddies to keep the whipping squall's chill at bay.
Very early the next morning we were disembarking and in the predawn gray the islands themselves remained an unknown quantity. What was certain was the wonderful hospitality of our host Jenny White and her husband Duncan. We were welcomed into their home, at what is generally considered an anti-social hour, for a truly scrumptious pancake breakfast. And, thus fortified, we set out to find our nearby lodging.
Here's a picture of what emerged from the morning mists as we first arrived to the
Spruce Point Lodge.
I have read that Haida Gwaii (which, loosely translated, means Islands/Home of the People) had another name, a longer one, which meant the Islands-that-emerge-from-their-supernatural-concealment, and over the next week, watching the constant play of light through swirling mists, fogs and clouds, I could understand what they meant.
Taking a minute to enjoy that view.
The ladies of the lodge watch and wave as the fellas undertake a potentially hazardous fording of the mudflats at low tide.
Jenny and her family welcomed us back for a turkey dinner with some other friends that evening. It was again delightful. Thank you, Jenny and Duncan. The week passed in a blur of shows, drives, hikes, kayaking and other adventures. It all went way too fast but I am glad for every minute of it. Here are a few more highlights.
On one of our trips to Masset at the north end of the island we took a hike to
Tow Hill to check out the tidal blowhole on the rocks below. The blowhole was not spouting, the sea fairly calm, but the hill looked so inviting.
And this is what you see from the top.
From a viewing platform nearby, we took a moment together to appreciate the grandeur of our surroundings. Yeah.
On the way home that day, this young eagle went swooping along down the highway then landed to feast on roadkill. YEAH!!!
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Off the highway on the road back is the famous
Balance Rock. It really is just sitting there, balanced. But it is really big and heavy, so if you can climb, you can even balance yourself on top without disturbing it. Pressure, time and tide, will eventually change that, but for the foreseeable future it's resting comfortably.
The entire week was a huge blessing and great experience. The island was welcoming, weird and wonderful. A genuine joy to share and discover. We were honoured to perform at the Haida Heritage Center and wish to thank Saguenay Elementary again for the T-shirt's and beautiful moon snail shells. The northern moon snail, or Euspira Lewisiiis a predatory marine gastropod mollusk of quite impressive dimensions (for a snail). They feed mostly on bivalve molluscs by drilling a hole in the shell with their toothy radula, and feeding on the unfortunate organism's soft and fleshy innards. Harsh. I forget that snails are so tough. They commonly hang out under the water, as much as 150 meters down, sliding somewhat slimily along the sea floor or substrate on the slow, steady hunt for scallops to scoff. The shell was traditionally believed to keep bad spirits out of your home, so one would be placed at every door, a small spiral sentry. Anyway, they're beautiful and you can totally hear the sea if you put an ear to it.
A parting picture, and one that I will always remember, is the Spruce Point sunrise. Yeah, something similar would occur each a.m, and we would be there to witness it, before heading off on the road that day. Whoa.
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And as for the sunset Adam and I saw on our kayak adventure on our day off... well, I surely can't describe it in words, so here it is.
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On the way back we ferried in the daylight. And it was great. Some of us saw a solitary humpback, and though it evaded our lens and was at some distance, it was still so sweet. The wild nature tour continues.
Notes from the mainland will follow soon. Bear, birds, moose, mountains and many such marvels. The roads just keep going, disappearing into the distance. Till next time.
~ Michael McKinnon (The Botanist/White Pine)
An active tenor with Vancouver Opera Chorus, John Arsenault has appeared in minor roles in Salome and Fidelio. John recently turned heads as Pinkerton in Vancouver Island Opera's production of Madame Butterfly. John will help kick off the season with his role of Flavio, a centurian, in Vancouver Opera's Norma.
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